Graffiti City: A Tapestry of Healing

In my opinion, seven or even ten days in Medellin is probably just enough time to relax, see some sights, and on your last day realize that you needed more time in Medellin. If you are having any challenges trying to figure out what to do, Column 13 or Comuna 13 or “Graffiti Town” or “Mural City” should top your list. If you have any interest about the impact of the drug trade on a community and in particular the infamous drug lord, Pablo Escobar, then walking the same neighborhood that he called home is the place for you. For information, Pablo Escobar was a notorious Colombian drug lord and the leader of the Medellín Cartel, which became infamous in the late 20th century for its role in the global cocaine trade. His reign, particularly during the 1980s and early 1990s, was marked by extreme violence, corruption, and significant social upheaval in Colombia. Escobar’s influence led to a peak in drug-related violence, with numerous assassinations and bombings occurring in Medellín and beyond.

Column 13 

1. Historical Significance: Comuna 13, where Column 13 is located, was one of the areas most affected by Escobar’s violence and the broader drug war. During the height of Escobar’s power, the community suffered greatly from the turmoil.

2. Transformation: After Escobar’s death in 1993 and the subsequent decline of the Medellín Cartel, Comuna 13 began to transform. The community started focusing on recovery and rebuilding, aiming to shift its identity from one associated with violence to one of hope and resilience.

3. Symbol of Resilience: Column 13 has become a symbol of this transformation. It represents the community’s efforts to reclaim their space and promote peace and artistic expression in the face of a difficult past.

4. Artistic Expression: The column, along with the vibrant street art in Comuna 13, serves as a testament to the community’s creativity and determination to move forward. Art has played a crucial role in healing and fostering a new narrative about the neighborhood.

Initiatives like Column 13 reflect the Medellin’s commitment to overcoming that legacy and fostering a future grounded in resilience and community. Furthermore, innovative practices first introduced by Pablo Escobar led to the installation of escalators where murals, restaurants, bars, and clothing stores are now located. At every escalator transition point there are breathtaking panoramic views of the urban landscape. Houses and apartments join to form a massive community covering the surrounding mountainside. 

During my travels through the neighborhood, I recall turning a corner and was surprised to see the walkway continue wrapping around the mountainside and piercing through layers of condensed housing. I was mesmerized by the artistic talent on display and depth of meaning the vast array of images that were captured ranging from current cultural icons (Simpsons) to the more traditional indigenous representations. 

Personally, I don’t think you need to pay a guide for this adventure because the pathway is clearly marked. There are plenty of guides to pick from once you are there or you schedule online for pre-booking, but again-not necessary. Another piece of advice would be to arrive before 11:00am or you will be dealing with a large contingency of tourists.