Banh Mi (and Sticky Rice) in Paradise
Banh Mi Sandwich
Ask a local in Hanoi, Vietnam and they most likely will advise that no Banh Mi sandwich is created alike. Walking down the street of any neighborhood, and you will see a plethora of local restauranteurs advertising the Banh Mi sandwich for sale. During my walking tour of the neighborhood with our Vietnamese interns, I was about to order a Banh Mi from a vendor, and the intern told me not to order because it was bread with nothing in it. They advised me to eat Pho or other dishes. Fortunately, our house “Nanny” made Banh Mi sandwiches for dinner, and it was worth the wait. The sourdough bread formed a crunchy outer layer for the soft doughy inner sanctum which housed the fresh lettuce, bean sprouts, juicy tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, and egg omelet. Due to the fact I have been abstaining from eating meat, I chose to exclude the other choices of pork, pate, grilled chicken, or beef. I didn’t need the meat because eating a locally sourced Banh Mi sandwich was one of those unforgettable foodie moments. I proceeded to devour the sandwich as if it was the last one on earth. I looked around for seconds and realized my rather robust appetite had forgotten I was in Vietnam where seconds are not part of the dinner menu. No matter, my mind settled on seeking out another Banh Mi sandwich that would rival what I had just consumed.
Days later, I had my chance. I was walking through a quaint neighborhood just outside of the Old Quarter and observed several locals squatting on stools, near a Banh Mi stall, munching on the delectable sandwiches. I diverted from my path feeling this was my opportunity to strike and have my first street vendor made Banh Mi. I strolled up confidently, past the five Vietnamese patrons staring curiously at me, and pointed at the menu image depicting a Banh Mi containing tuna. The sandwich maker waved her index finger in a back-and-forth motion indicating they had did not have tuna. I had a choice to make: break my “no meat” fast for the past year or embrace the moment! I chose “embrace the moment” and ordered a grilled chicken Banh Mi. Minutes later, I was holding a steaming hot Banh Mi sandwich. The crust had the crunch factor and this time contained hot off the grill chicken, cheddar cheese, carrots, and a creamy thousand island dressing that sang with flavor. If I was to choose one item to have broken my “no meat” fast, it would have definitely been for this Banh Mi sandwich. And so, my hunt continues through Hanoi to find another and another and another Banh Mi sandwich.
Sticky Rice
Every once in a while, I will notice rice laid out on mats along the sidewalk drying in the unrelenting midday heat. I pass by wondering why there is this large amount of rice sitting in the open sun in the middle of a public access way. And then my answer came when Julian, the CSDS intern, opened a beautiful banana leaf before class started one day and there was sticky rice! Julian was eager for me to try the local comestible, and I was just as excited to stick my grimy fingers into the wad of white granules. I observed there were peanuts sitting like little golden nuggets within the rice and sprinkled on top was a light coating of seasoning salt. The chewy concoction was balanced perfectly by the crunchy peanuts, and the hint of seasoning salt tantalized the taste buds. I asked Julian where I could find the Vietnames delight, and he advised it actually was not easy to locate. Many of the vendors did not sell sticky rice which made it all the better when he had the opportunity buy it.
