Entering Eden (An adventure on Koh Samet Island)
About a month ago, I was sitting at my desk in the Foreign Language Department at Suankularb Wittayalai Rangsit School preparing my lesson plan for the day. I recall it was a Monday and the AC had kicked on cooling down the office in preparation for the humid day. I usually arrived early to organize, plan, clear my head of the weekend activities, and interact with my colleagues (see what they did and steal any ideas that may benefit my explorations). Like clockwork, my colleague and fellow blogger sat next to me at her desk and began telling me about her weekend Koh Samet (also spelled Koh Samed) island adventure. I listened intently, mesmerized by the idea that this might be a place I could go too and experience for myself. She showed me photographs depicting white sand beaches and nightly fire shows, expounded on the ease by which she was able to navigate the transportation system, and encouraged me to see this locale with my own two eyes.
I made the decision about half way through our conversation that I would plan an excursion to visit this island while my two kids were visiting. I thought this would be a great shared experience that maximized our time together and captured a breath-taking impactful moment in time.
My colleague explained she utilized the Mo Chit New Bus/Van Terminal which required the purchase of a bus ticket from Bangkok to Ban Phe Pier (3.5 to 4 hours by bus). From Ban Phe Pier you purchase an inexpensive ferry boat ticket to Koh Samet (30-minute boat trip). While at Koh Samet she stayed at one of the many affordable beachside hostels. Check out her travel adventures at: http://meganannwrites.com/2019/07/18/koh-samet-thailand/.
Since my two adult children were only going to be in Thailand for a short amount of time, I made the decision to book two nights at Saikaew Beach resort (8/1 Moo 4 Tumbon Phe, Amphur Mueang Rayong 21160). The cost was a little higher than I had normally paid for hotel rooms in Thailand (2 nights for a total of 12,690Baht or $411.00US Dollars) but the tradeoff was the beachside location, there appeared to be numerous restaurants in and around the hotel, the amenities appeared to be upscale, there was a pool with a bar, and it was rated between 4.5 to 5 stars on all the hotel web sites. After booking the hotel, my plan was to follow Megan’s suggestions related to utilizing the Mo Chit New Van/Bus terminal system and once we arrived on Koh Samet, spend the majority of our time eating and drinking at the restaurants along the coastline.
Throughout my travels, I have learned that if you keep your eyes and ears open to alternate paths; the universe might provide answers I had never dreamed were possible. Case in point, while walking around the Ekkamai neighborhood one day prior to my children’s arrival, I observed several charter buses exiting a driveway across the street from my hotel. Intrigued, I walked towards the general area I had seen them and found the motherlode: The Eastern Bangkok Bus Terminal.
I approached the first person dressed in a uniform and asked him if I could buy bus tickets to Koh Samet. In broken English, he directed me to a clearly marked counter where I purchased three one-way chartered bus tickets to Ban Phe Pier for 160Baht each. I asked the agent if I could also buy a round trip bus ticket and/or ferry tickets. The agent was not a great English speaker but after a little bit of effort, I was able to also buy three ferry tickets (60Baht each) from Ban Phe Pier to Koh Samet and learned that I would buy the return bus tickets when we arrived at the Ban Phe bus terminal. This experience builds upon the many options a traveler has at their disposal. So, if you’re in the Mo Chit area, use Megan’s expert advice related to the Mo Chit New Bus/Van terminal and if you’re in the Ekkamai district use the Eastern Bangkok Bus Terminal located less than a 30 second walk from the Ekkamai BTS station.
Fast forward to the morning of August 5th. We arrived at the Eastern Bangkok Bus Terminal at 6:30am for our scheduled 7:00am departure. Several people were standing around at which point I found someone who directed my party of three to the back of the terminal where I found the correct bus. I provided the bus driver our tickets and boarded without any issues. The bus was clean, comfortable, had AC, and reminded me of a bus I might find in the states.
The bus ride itself was approximately four hours to Ban Phe Pier and I would estimate the bus was half filled with paying customers. Upon our arrival, we were dropped off in a narrow alleyway across the street from the pier and I was able to buy a bus ticket from Ban Phe Pier to Bangkok in a small office that also sold tickets to various tourist attractions around town.
We easily found the pier due to the fact there were signs in English directing us where to go. I found the ferry ticket booth and a very helpful Thai agent escorted us down the wooden dock to an awaiting boat. I was a little surprised by the amount of trash on the shoreline coupled with the murky water and multitude of broken down fishing boats crammed into the harbor.
During the boat ride to the island, we encountered heavy rain about half way there. We were sitting on the top deck when a dark cloud decided to release a torrential downpour. The rain came down in sheets and immediately drenched everything on the top deck. Passengers were trying to get downstairs into the sheltered cabin but there was only one way down a small stairway which left a log jam at the top. Me and the kids decided to take the soaking and watched with amusement as our Chinese brethren stood in line frantically speaking in their mother tongue while at the same time trying to keep their balance in the midst of our ferry boat being tossed side to side amongst the rising ocean swells. The rain eventually passed us by and with it, the sea transformed from murky brown into a glowing transparent emerald.
The approach to the island was nothing short of awe inspiring. As we slipped into the dock at Koh Samet Na Dan Pier, a gigantic sculpture of a legendary Thai sea goddess sprouted from the sea.
We walked down the pier together, my two children giddy with excitement, I was transfixed on the sea goddess. Prior to exiting the covered dock area, I was stopped by a local merchant who informed us we had to pay a tourist fee of 20Baht each. I paid the fee and found the only mode of transportation were songthaews (two bench seated trucks) or renting motor scooters. We jumped in the back of a songthaew and were transported to the gate leading into the National Park where we were met by unarmed uniformed rangers. The songtaew driver kindly made us disembark at which point we paid 200Baht each to the park rangers and received 5 day passes for unlimited access to the beach area. We then walked a short distance to our hotel.
How do I adequately describe Koh Samet? One word: freedom. The white sand beach and warm crystal-clear water has been preserved to reflect the wild exotic untamed nature of the island. Power boats crisscrossed the open ocean delicately mingling with the Chinese and Thai tourists frolicking in the sea. Along the coastline are restaurants serving a wide range of Thai inspired foods along with cheap beer and mixed drinks. We walked down the beach unimpeded holding our sandals in one hand and breathing in the pure salty air. Clouds moved effortlessly across the distant horizon framing distant rocky islands and picturesque cliffs. Saikaew Beach is less than a fifteen walk from end to end. At the culmination of the journey there is a sculpture located on a rock outcropping near the surfline of a green mermaid holding a baby with outstretched arms and below the sculpture are the words in large blue block lettering “@Kohsamet”. These words came to mind as I held my breath in the midst of personified splendor. The scene is nothing short of surreal.
Balanced on the clouds
Gray smudge
@Koh Samet
Green goddess
Holding a babe
Forever welcoming all
In your bosom
I find peace at last
Horizon lights
Line stretched thin
Under the tree I sit
Pin pricks spread far and wide
Pathways
Strands untied
To a story
A life lived
Make your peace
Moans life
A moment
Well loved
Well Iived
What more cries
The rustling leaves
Gather your wits
Timeless man
Soul set on the horizon
You are meant for
What
This moment
Flame wavers
Silent
For the next two days, we gorged ourselves by eating and drinking at every beachside restaurant/bar or sitting in the pool enjoying the two for one happy hour at the poolside bar. Each locale had seating right on the beach which varied from oversized orange beanbags to elaborate padded mattresses with head rests. At night, we watched the amazing fire show at Ploythalay Resort and relaxed watching the world pass before us through the lens of a magnificent sunset.
So, is there more to this story you might ask? There always is. For example, we walked through town and found the local temple (Wat Samet) which was home to a massive white seated Buddha.
We interacted with a monk who gave us several Buddhist trinkets, were attacked by a rabid dog while passing by the tourist police station, and observed a concerted effort by the local population to decrease plastic use through several different conservation efforts. Koh Samet is a must-see destination. It embodies the Thai culture’s love for nature, their ability to cultivate harmony through engaging all the human senses, and the constant pursuit of freedom from suffering. Two days on this island paradise was like licking an ice cream cone and then helplessly watching the ice cream fall to the ground. I tasted the beauty, I wanted more, and it left an indelible mark that I will be back for a second taste.
