Grand Makel Hotel Roof Top Bar

The first night in Istanbul, I decided to walk the neighborhood and being searching for night life opportunities within a two-mile radius of the Double Tree Hotel Topkapi. You are probably thinking to yourself, “Why don’t you just look on the internet for suggestions?” Trust me, I did, and quickly learned COVID had decimated the local restaurant scene. Therefore, it was up to me to find the places myself, and I love the challenge! My first impressions of the neighborhood were mixed. The Double Tree Hotel Topkapi is located near a massive graveyard and as I headed south, I found myself in a largely commercial area that was not the cleanest place I have ever been, there were not many people walking the streets, the buildings were dilapidated or vacant, there were parked cars jamming the narrow streets, the restaurants could be best described as small holes in the wall that were not very welcoming, and there were few if any street lights. Eventually, the commercial area opened up into a residential district containing niche grocery markets offering a few fresh fruits and vegetables and restaurants appearing to serve the local residents. 

I turned a corner and saw a short distance away the large neon sign for the Grand Makel Hotel. My eyes scanned the hotel for any signs of life at which point the rooftop bar area caught my attention. There was no one checking in and there were not many cars in the parking lot so I took a risk and walked confidently into the main lobby. Curious, I decided to try and gain access to the bar area even though I was not a guest. I approached the employee working behind the front desk and inquired about the restaurant. His English was atrocious, and he couldn’t grasp the fact I wanted to eat in the restaurant even though I was not a hotel guest. After several minutes of hand gestures and using my Google Translate app he finally consented to allowing me into the elevator by saying the immortal words, “It’s possible”. I felt like I was in a European movie as he stiffly escorted me to the elevators. 

Once on the top floor, I sat down at a table along the windows looking out over the city. It was a spectacular view. Lights dotted the landscape illuminating the densely populated landscape, and for the first time, I felt like I had finally arrived in Istanbul. The interior of the restaurant was a mix of old school 80’s American décor and attempts at modern light fixtures. The wrap around padded leather booths combined with the wait staff dressed in dilapidated tuxedos and smoke-filled dining area accentuated the feeling I had stepped back in time. Looking around the dining area, I was one of five people in the restaurant. The issue was that three of those persons were the bartender, waiter, and chef who all visited my table at the same time. The bartender and waiter were dressed in white collared shirts with red suspenders that seemed to oddly fit in with the surrounding furnishings. The chef was a middle-aged balding man who was wearing a dirty white apron draped over a short sleeved white T-shirt. I was a little overwhelmed by the three-man response because I kept flashing back to the movie “Hostel”. If you haven’t seen “Hostel”, maybe wait watching it until after you visit Istanbul. It kind of hits close to home and by no means did I feel in danger, but speech patterns, dress, and environment all mirrored some of the characterizations in the movie. The chef suggested I try their fried fish of the day. Based on the three people watching my every move, I went along with his advice at which point he turned abruptly and headed back to the kitchen. I ordered a Bomonti beer (locally brewed beer), a plate of olives, and sat back to take in the sights and sounds happening on the streets below. 

• Bomonti Beer-If I were to describe Bomonti beer in one word: authentic. It is a hoppy clean crisp slightly bitter beer made in Turkey. I was surprised by its depth of flavor and ended up drinking this beer wherever I sat down to eat. This was definitely one of my more profound discoveries because I love beer and there is a distinctive flavor profile associated to this beverage.

Approximately 45 minutes later, my plate of fried fish arrived. The chef gingerly placed the dish in front of me, backed away three steps and waited for me to begin eating. I scraped a flaky morsel from the bones and allowed the flesh to melt in my mouth. For a whole fried fish, it was definitely edible. I would best describe it as salty but good with slight undertones of the briny ocean. Further, I had no idea what type of fish I was eating and no one could tell me in English what was entering my mouth, but I grinned in appreciation which appeared to make the chef pleased. For my first restaurant experience, the entire night was worth every single Turkish Lira.