Hanoi, Vietnam Food Highlights

Ken Trang Tiem-Ice Cream Shop

Ken Trang Tiem Ice Cream shop is the quintessential hot spot in the Old Quarter to stop and take a break from the heat with family, friends or by yourself for ice cream. Most people would go so far to say Ken Trang Tiem serves the “best” ice cream in Hanoi, but I’ll leave that opinion to your palette to decide. There are several flavors to choose from: coconut vanilla ice cream, chocolate or matcha. When I visited, I tried to order the chocolate ice cream, and they only had coconut vanilla available. I wasn’t disappointed. The ready-made single scoop ice cream consists of creamy coconut infused vanilla ice cream a top a crispy crunchy cone. For only 15,000 VND per ice cream cone, this is a steal. And if you’re thinking of getting a double scoop like in the States, this is Vietnam. You get what they give you. If you want a double scoop, then get back in line and order a second cone. That’s what I did! 

General Observations of Coffee and Tea During my Time in Hanoi, Sa Pa, and Ha Long Bay

Coffee and tea are the drink of choice here in Vietnam. In the small neighborhood I live in, there are at minimum six coffee shops within a block of each other; multiply that exponentially throughout Hanoi and you can imagine there are no shortage of opportunities to sample this beverage of choice. This general observation can also be applied during my time in Sa Pa and Ha Long Bay. The Vietnamese coffee is more akin to espresso but heavier on the acidity. Think of a thick viscous concentrated black liquid that acts like jet fuel for your bodily functions. It is normal to add sweet cream to counteract the bitterness or heavy doses of sugar, milk, yogurt, egg (very popular here), and/or coconut for flavoring. I’ve noticed most people like it cold due to the hot humid conditions outside. There were several times when I ordered hot coffee only to receive cold coffee because the assumption or majority of coffee orders are requested with ice. Make sure to downsize your expectations because one size fits all in Vietnam. The only place you will get a Venti is at Starbucks (it’ll cost you for this taste of home at 100,000 VND or a little over $4.00 USD for an Americano?!); otherwise, a small cup with a straw is all you should expect when you make an order from the local coffee shops. The cost is normally 25,000 VND (about a $1.00 USD) for a cup of Vietnamese Joe, and you should feel good because you are supporting those locally sourced hard-working mom and pop shops. Me; I like it hot and straight black for the maximum bitter shock it provides to the palette and buzz I get from the caffeine. In my opinion, coffee and tea lovers will have a blissful time interacting with the local community while enjoying a unique beverage experience. 

Pasteur Street Brewing Company-Pub/Restaurant

While cruising through the Old Quarter you might think to yourself: where is a down to earth upscale pub that I could relax and have a beer? The answer for many is Pasteur Street Brewing Company! The modern industrially designed establishment is located in a back alley behind the Old Cathedral and boasts 12 craft beers on tap along with Vietnamese and American pub style food. It can be best described as an enclosed brick and mortar bar unlike Beer Street which are open air establishments and exposed to the elements. In the refrigerator near the bar, I noticed there was a small assortment of bottled beer for sale, but I bypassed those for a cold glass of beer from the tap. I shimmied up to the bar and ordered a Pasteur Street Pale Ale: a light hoppy 4% alcohol IPA. The head on the beer was well composed and the beer initially tasted like a heavier lager with a bitter aftertaste signaling it’s association to an IPA. They also have a shuffle board on the first floor and the second floor is another area where you can relax. For all those beer lovers (and I know there is a large contingency cruising around Hanoi), I hope this gives you a little respite from the Bia Hanoi watery beer. Pasteur Street Brewery is a great place to unwind after a long sweaty walk-through Old Quarter where an eclectic mix of foreigners and locals go to enjoy a well-crafted beer. 

Xoi Yen-Sticky Rice Restaurant

Recommendations where to eat are always welcome when travelling in foreign countries. One of the volunteers who I work with at the school overheard I liked sticky rice and suggested I try Xoi Yen restaurant in the Old Quarter. I took an exhilarating 45-minute ride on the back of a Grab motor scooter from my volunteer house into the Old Quarter and located Xoi Yen on the corner of a bustling intersection. There was indoor and outdoor seating available, so I chose to sit outside at one of the tables positioned along the sidewalk. The menu took a few minutes to figure out because the waiter did not speak English. I noted there were three sticky rice options to choose from (corn, turmeric, and plain) and then you selected a topping. Eventually, I managed to order corn sticky rice with a “mixed” topping. There was no explanation on the menu of what “mixed” meant; irregardless, I was drawn in by the mysterious connotations invoked by the word. While waiting for my food, my vantage point allowed me the opportunity to observe motor scooters whizzing by, pedestrians navigating the treacherous traffic conditions with relative ease, vendors in traditional conical hats cruising by carrying baskets of fruit, trinkets, and pastries, and odors wafting through the air containing traces of cigarette smoke, diesel, condensed humidity, pungent tropical trees, coffee, simmering meats, body odor, and asphalt. Minutes later, I was served a bowl containing an assortment of Vietnamese meats nestled on top of a thick layer of corn meal and sticky rice. For the past year, I have not eaten meat, but I figured this was the time to break my fast. I was not disappointed nor did I feel guilty because the meal was simply divine. Did I pay for it later on the porcelain throne? Absolutely, but sometimes the juice is worth the squeeze. The corn and sticky rice combined for a hint of sweetness to counteract the rich sausage, shredded pork, boiled egg, and chicken. Each bite contained its own unique flavor profile and accentuated the depth of simple Vietnamese cuisine. Xoi Yen was by far one of my Hanoi foodie highlights.