Holiday (Day 3) — Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya has been on my radar since arriving in Thailand. It is located approximately one hour north of Bangkok and is easily accessible by taxi, van, or train. The bulk of my history reading has been laser focused on learning more about understanding the how and why the ancient capital city fell in 1767 to the Burmese army. History lesson aside, I went there with some predetermined thoughts about what I was going to witness or feel. Ayutthaya blew everything out of the water and into another hemisphere.
I arrived in the early afternoon and was dropped off by the Grab driver at a remote location on the Ayutthaya Historical Site. I thought you could walk around the area but this was far from true. The city is spread out over a huge area incorporating landmarks, old temples, tourist sites, large canal ways, street vendors, and connecting roadways. Walking is impossible which led me to flag down a Tuk Tuk driver who as luck would have it was honest and agreed to drive me around for two hours at the agreed upon price of 600Baht. He showed me a laminated placard highlighting the major landmarks and I decided to start at the reclining buddha. For the most part, words cannot capture the beauty, feel, rhythm and pulse, and devastation that embody each step taken through the ruins. My imagination tried to fill spaces that were crumbling, torn apart or intentionally destroyed.
An hour passed by in a heartbeat. The Tuk Tuk driver eventually waved to me indicating he was ready to transport me to the next site. Approximately 20 minutes later, we arrived at Wat Mahathat which is where the Buddha in the tree is located and the grounds sprawl outward in an interconnected maze of decapitated Buddha’s, ruins, shade trees, lakes, grassy knolls, stupas, and religious sites. There are very few places you are not allowed to explore and I took full advantage of this freedom. Take a stroll with me and enjoy.
When the Burmese razed the city, they sent a strong message to the Thai people by desecrating most if not all the Buddha’s images at Ayutthaya. One aspect of this experience that had a profound impact on me was the calm I felt in the midst of this historical devastation. I felt a stillness inside like a still pond unmoved by the elements.
I made my way back to the Tuk Tuk driver who suggested I go for a canal ride. I was a little wary to go based on my first day in Bangkok but he assured me they were fair and it would be something I wouldn’t forget. He was right. For an hour and a half, I rode in a long tailed wooden boat past Ayutthaya’s historical ruins, tug boats pulling large floating barges, temples, restaurants, modern high rise buildings, and through lush floating water plants.
After the boat ride, I decided to go back to Bangkok. I knew there was more to see but I felt completely satisfied with my day. Ayutthaya is a myriad of contrasting emotions, feelings, sights, sounds, information, and spiritual connection which left an indelible mark on my individual consciousness.