Places to Visit in Hanoi (Temple of Literature, Museum of Ethnology, Hoa Lo Prison, Ngoc Son Temple)
Temple of Literature
Located in the heart of the Old Quarter, this historical site dates back several thousand years and is the location of the first college. Within the brick walls surrounding the facility are large tranquil pools filled with koi fish and lotus flowers, well-manicured indigenous plants and trees, buildings containing statues of past scholars and kings, writing implements, books, and statues of cranes and turtles. If you are into educational history this is the place to visit. In addition, there is a place where an elderly man dressed in traditional academic garb creates hand drawn calligraphy of your choice for 100,000 VND. There are also other prints and artwork for sale. Overall, I was extremely impressed by the experience and went back a second time several weeks later to engage with the artifacts, tapestries, and artwork.
Museum of Ethnology
This is a must see for anyone remotely interested in Vietnamese culture. The updated modern facility presents a vast array of interactive experiences for any age to understand and engage with the diverse population living with Vietnam’s borders. In addition, there is an outdoor exhibition that takes you amongst native plants and man-made streams and leads to several houses designed and built as exact replicas of native village gathering places. There are few limitations where you can explore which makes the experience interesting and relevant. If you need to take a break, there is a beautiful café on the museum grounds that serves fresh made smoothies, coffee, tea, and snacks.
Hoa Lo Prison
Another place to visit in Old Quarter and experience Vietnam’s local and global history is Hoa Lo prison (aka Hanoi Hotel). It started as a French built prison dedicated to imprisoning Vietnamese political dissidents in the early and mid-20th century. It later became a prison for captured pilots and soldiers during the Vietnam War (or as the Vietnamese call it “the American War”). This was no ordinary prison; rather, it was a high security prison or death camp. Each camp was designed for 40 to 50 prisoners but over 100 were incarcerated here making it hell on earth. In the dungeon, prisoners were fettered 24 hours a day on a declining slope for maximum pain and they had to relieve themselves on the spot. Prisoners commonly were left blind because of being in the dungeon for extended periods of time. Women and children were also subjected to the same conditions as the men and suffered greatly under the oppressive regime. This was an overwhelming experience from an American outlook because you see the effects of war through Vietnamese eyes. American history books frame the war from an American viewpoint and walking through a place that embodied suffering, persecution, and death for those fighting for their freedoms from American and French oversight shook my ideological foundation. I was grateful for this experience and would give a gentle warning for all those visiting the site to have an open mind and prepare to be challenged in how you understand history.
Ngoc Son Temple
Along the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake is Ngoc Son Temple. Mythology states King Ly Thai To moved the capitol to Hanoi because he saw a dragon fly over the river. The turtles of the lake embody the spirit of the King and somewhere at the bottom of the lake lies a magical sword. While walking the temple grounds, observing the lake lapping gently along the outer walkways, smelling the sweet banyan trees and smoke from the burning paper tributes; the stories accentuated the rich tapestry of Vietnamese religious and cultural belief systems residing in Hanoi.
