Turks & Caicos — Lounging in Paradise
Overview
Turks and Caicos is an assault on every sense. Imagine you open your eyes after a restful nap lying on a comfortable deck lounger under an expansive white umbrella that opens to a broad blue horizon bordered by crystal blue calm waters: a shifting oceanic landscape complete with distant puffy clouds, black headed sea gulls, emerald waters, and cool breezes. This is not a dream or a photograph out of a magazine; it was my reality as I walked to the shoreline and slowly immersed myself in the 85-degree water. Parasails dotted the sky. Boats large and small skimmed across the sparkling warm water while wispy clouds floated gently past. Every once in a while, a brief but welcome gentle rain shower set in and then quickly moved on leaving a sense of refreshment and cool vibes. Pleasant trade winds carried away the heat of the day. The white sand of Grace Bay Beach is like powder. When it becomes wet it is like a thick paste; yet disintegrated when released back into the ocean. The heat seemed to disappear into the soft sand never becoming too hot for those with tender feet. Sand flies, bugs, or other critters were non-existent on the beach, allowing the worries of the world to drop away like the paper tigers they are. This is and always will be paradise.
Alexandra Resort
Our room at the Alexandra Resort was on the fourth floor, with a view of Grace Bay from our deck. The king size bed was comfortable while the exterior grounds were clean and well maintained. We also had a kitchenette with a refrigerator stocked with complimentary beer and bottled waters. Overall, I didn’t have much to complain about. The bicycles were free to rent for the day, but most of them were inoperable which would be the only chink in the proverbial armor. Snorkel gear, small sail boats, kayaks, paddleboards, and other beach related toys were free to rent for the day and there was no pressure to return them in a timely manner. The staff for the most part were extremely friendly and went the extra mile to make sure our needs were met.
The one thing everyone needs to be aware of is that there are a limited number of resort beach chairs. You have to wake up no later than 7am to reserve a front row seat by setting down a towel, book, or other personal item on the deck chair. If you choose to sleep in, then you most likely will have to settle for a second or third row seat. This isn’t bad or good, but it’s nice to have an unobstructed view of the bay. During the afternoon, Alexandra staff would host a beach themed trivia game or group games that broke up the monotony and provided some entertaining moments. Vendors walking the beach were infrequent and were actually quite polite. When I told them “No”, they didn’t take offense or try to push their services; instead, they smiled and kept walking.
At night there was always something to do. Alexandra Resort had live music, or a DJ, and family themed movie night that was hosted in a cozy wooden deck area containing an expansive beach view, couches, and fire features. One night while lying on the beach deck chairs enjoying the clear night skies and visible stars, we were treated to a fireworks show from one of the other resorts a short distance away.
Over the course of the week I was in Turks and Caicos, I had the opportunity to walk the majority of the Grace Bay coastline. This allowed me to observe the multitude of other resorts and what they had to offer. I am of the opinion, Alexandra Resort is right up there with the other major resorts in what they provide to their guests relating to private beach experience, family atmosphere, assorted restaurants, access to multiple bars, location near the local town, and ability to experience Blue Haven Resort. If you are not into the family atmosphere, then I would highly recommend finding another resort!
Blue Haven Resort
The sister resort to Alexandra Resort is Blue Haven Resort located approximately 20 minutes away by van or taxi ride. The Alexandra Resort offered hourly free transit to and from the resort which we enjoyed free of charge with the all-inclusive deal. My initial impression of Blue Haven Resort was that it was beautifully designed, a much smaller resort than Alexandra, and was situated in a horrible location along the marina. I say this because the beach area was small and framed by a marsh region in front and to the side was a marina containing massive yachts. The grounds were impeccably kept and they had one outside bar. The Fire and Ice restaurant at Blue Haven offered similar menu items as all the restaurants at the Alexandra Resort which made me very grateful, we did not stay at that resort. Plus, Alexandra Resort is right on Grace Bay. I can’t imagine missing out on the daily walk to one of the most beautiful places on earth!
Food
On the Alexandra resort, we had several food and drink options. There was a full-service bar on the beach and inside the resort (approximately a 30 second walk from the beach) and six restaurants. The food was decent. We had the option of steak dinner overlooking the beach at Black Rock Steakhouse, American fare at the truck stop, breakfast typically was at Asu, the Fish Deck served fresh fish, and Dragon Orchid was all you can eat sushi. Our favorite place to eat was Irie Bites located along the wood boardwalk leading to the beach. The chef cooked melt in your mouth jerk chicken and jerk pork, creole rice, beans, and perfectly grilled corn. By about the third day, we figured out we could order from our beach chairs and enjoyed being served this unbelievably tasty food.
One of my favorite meals at the resort and throughout the various places I visited was the conch ceviche salad. Conch is a main staple on the island. I found the conch salad at Fish Deck was a can’t miss meal. Personally, I thought the steak at Black Rock Steakhouse was also well prepared, but my wife disagreed. We both agreed that the presentation of a sizzling steak on a flat black rock was memorable and helped to alleviate any shortcomings in taste.
The bartenders did not skimp on the alcohol. Locally brewed beer on tap along with Caribbean inspired mixed drinks made the whole experience unique and unforgettable.
Mr. Groupers Restaurant
About a fifteen-minute walk or five-minute bike ride from Alexandra Resort was a well-reviewed restaurant aptly named Mr. Groupers. Upon our arrival, I observed lush tropical vegetations intertwined with the beach motif. We were seated quickly and I noted there were several local families enjoying lunch together. I ordered the conch fritters and coconut shrimp. I was a little disappointed by the thick fritter dough that clumped in my mouth and lack luster accompanying dipping sauce. The coconut shrimp tasted like it had been taken from the freezer and dumped in a fryer. Because our resort was all inclusive, we decided to move on after tasting the conch fritters and coconut shrimp and skip paying the exorbitant food prices.
Shays Café
Located in a small bustling town near Alexandra Resort was Shays Café. Along the short stretch of road were lined high end shopping, niche restaurants, a couple of bars, the police station, and small businesses. The menu was simple: pancakes, eggs, omelet’s, and breakfast sandwiches. I would definitely recommend trying out the place because it offers a welcome change from the resort environment. The food was decent and priced appropriately.
Lemon2Go/Sandbox Restaurant
Right down the street from Shays Café is a quaint coffee shop called Lemon2Go. The décor and style of the restaurant was modern design. The coffee shop sold Knick knacks, locally sourced rum, a variety of specialty coffee drinks, and an outdoor/indoor chill space to relax and unwind. Adjacent to the coffee shop was the Sandbox Restaurant which served breakfast sandwiches. I really enjoyed the atmosphere in both places and appreciated how well they worked together to create an enjoyable customer experience.
Snorkeling
The first day of snorkeling, in front of our hotel, on Grace Bay I was able to see a plastic table, one white fish, and I dove about 15 feet to retrieve a solitary conch. I brought the conch to the beach to show my wife but within a couple of minutes returned it back to its home. I didn’t have the heart to take it. I later learned of the Bight Reef which was a 15-minute walk on the beach.
Bight Reef was a protected area that allowed snorkelers to swim in a circle around the reef. Many different types of fish were inhabiting the reef and provided several hours of enjoyment. One secret I found, was just prior to Bight Reef, was a reef where no one was snorkeling. It was just as big if not bigger than Bight Reef and I was allowed to swim unrestricted over the brilliantly colored coral reef. Further, the fish were more prevalent and diverse in this area. If you’re walking from Alexandra Resort to Bight Reef, you can’t miss the unnamed reef because it is visible through the crystal-clear water.
Community Fish Fry
The Thursday night fish fry was actually a Caribbean Street festival that was held in a parking lot near Mr. Groupers restaurant. The local community along with tourists danced, conversed, bought and sold items, and interacted with each other in a relaxed environment. Local businesses sold jewelry and other homemade charms, while street vendors churned out seafood and Caribbean themed dishes, locally sourced beer and mixed drinks. Live music blared from the stage, and set the mood for a lively dance session for all persons in attendance. Some people (tourists) in the crowd were under the impression or had been told that the festival was food and drinks were “free”, but this was not the case. Imagine a Caribbean style farmers market where the everyone comes together and has an opportunity to interact with each other and vacationers. Entry to the event was free, parking was free, music was free, but food, drinks, and trinkets had associated costs.